The region of Burgundy, located in east central France, has long been the home of terroir driven producers obsessed with letting the land speak for itself. That love and attention to detail however, rarely gets extended to the village of Beaujolais. Most Beaujolais wines are intended to be quaffing wine: fresh, bubbly, juicy and drunk as young as you can get your hands on them; but from time to time a producer realizes their grapes have a higher potential. Gamay Noir is the primary red grape variety grown in Beaujolais, and unlike most of the light, simplistic examples found in the region this single vineyard offering has a level of depth and power that rival some of the more famous Pinot Noir based wines from its neighbours to the north.
In the glass the wine is ultraviolet; transparent and luminescent. On the nose it is confectionary and savory simultaneously. Notes of watermelon candies, bacon fat, cherry soda, fennel tops, and roasted beets all come through. On the palate it is as vibrant as pre-set jello with additional notes of allspice berries, herbs du provence and pop-rocks. Although this is undoubtedly gamay in character, it is rare that such levels of intrigue, finesse and power are achieved from Gamay.
At $30 a bottle this offers dynamite value, and while it’s delicious today it will continue to get better in the cellar and will likely drink beautifully for another 5 years or more.